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Roasting

How The Second Wave Set The American Palate

The cafe chains that spread across the country in the late twentieth century standardized a dark roast and an espresso-and-milk format that still defines what most Americans expect coffee to taste like.

Close-up of freshly harvested red coffee cherries drying in the sun in Nicaragua.
Close-up of freshly harvested red coffee cherries drying in the sun in Nicaragua. · Photo via Pexels

Before specialty roasting arrived, American coffee was a light-to-medium canned product sold on price. The chains that followed changed the roast, the format and the vocabulary in ways that persist.

Darker roasting solved a consistency problem

Roasting further develops a heavier, more uniform flavor that owes less to the particular green coffee underneath. Differences between origins and between harvests narrow as the roast progresses.

For a company opening stores across a continent, that uniformity is a considerable operational advantage. The same drink can be produced in hundreds of locations from constantly changing green supply.

The style also stood up to milk and sugar, which most of the drinks sold contained. A lighter roast would have disappeared underneath them.

Espresso became the base for everything

Building a menu around espresso and steamed milk allowed a wide range of drinks from a small set of components. It also made service fast and staff training tractable.

That format was borrowed from Italian cafes and heavily adapted, with much larger volumes of milk and a much sweeter profile. The result is a distinctly American drink family.

The roast followed the format. A coffee has to be roasted to survive a large quantity of milk, which pushes toward the darker end.

The chains taught a vocabulary

Terms for drink sizes, milk options and espresso quantities entered general use through these companies. Ordering coffee became a structured transaction with a shared grammar.

They also introduced the idea that coffee could be a considered purchase with named origins and roast descriptions. That framing made the later specialty movement legible to customers.

Much of the third wave defined itself in opposition to this, which is itself evidence of how completely the second wave set the baseline.

Roasters still work against and with the inheritance

A large share of American drinkers still describe darker profiles as rich and lighter ones as weak or sour. That association was learned rather than innate.

Roasters selling lighter coffee frequently have to explain the difference at the point of sale, because the expectation runs the other way.

Many keep a darker blend precisely for this reason. It serves customers whose reference point was set decades ago and who are not looking to change it.

The infrastructure it built outlasted the style

Espresso machines, trained baristas, milk-based menus and the cafe as a workplace all arrived with this period and remain the foundation of the business.

Specialty roasters opening today inherit a public that knows what a latte is and expects one to be available. That is not a small advantage.

What changed afterward was the roast level and the sourcing story, not the underlying format. The shop layout would be recognizable to a customer from either era.

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Hana Morioka
Tea Editor, Brewed Originals

Hana trained in Uji and writes about tea with an emphasis on what is actually in the cup rather than the ceremony around it.

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