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Roasting

Degassing, And Why Fresh Is Not Best

Coffee roasted yesterday brews badly because it is still releasing carbon dioxide, which interferes with water reaching the grounds and distorts extraction.

Close-up of freshly harvested red coffee cherries drying in the sun in Nicaragua.
Close-up of freshly harvested red coffee cherries drying in the sun in Nicaragua. · Photo via Pexels

Freshness is treated as an unqualified virtue in coffee, yet a bag opened the day after roasting usually brews poorly. The reason is a gas that needs time to leave before the coffee behaves predictably.

Roasting generates gas that stays inside

The chemical reactions of roasting produce carbon dioxide in substantial quantity, and the porous structure of the roasted bean traps a large share of it.

Release begins immediately but proceeds slowly, with the rate falling off over days as the readily available gas escapes and the remainder works its way out.

This is why one-way valves appear on coffee bags, allowing gas out while keeping oxygen from getting in.

Gas interferes with brewing directly

When hot water meets very fresh grounds, escaping gas physically pushes water away from particle surfaces and prevents even saturation of the bed.

In pour over this shows as a violently swelling bloom and an unpredictable flow rate, since the bed structure keeps changing while the brew proceeds.

In espresso the gas comes out of solution under pressure and inside the puck, disturbing the bed and producing shots that gush and taste hollow.

Extraction reads low while it lasts

Because water cannot reach all the coffee evenly, measured extraction from very fresh coffee tends to come out lower than the same coffee a week later at identical settings.

Compensating by grinding finer works until the gas subsides, at which point the setting is suddenly too fine and the brews turn bitter.

That reversal is a common source of confusion, since nothing changed except the age of the coffee in the hopper.

The useful window depends on the roast

Darker roasts are more porous and release gas faster, often settling within a few days, while dense light roasts can take a week or two to become predictable.

Espresso generally benefits from a longer rest than filter, because the pressurised environment amplifies the disruption gas causes.

Whole beans hold gas far longer than ground coffee, which loses most of it within minutes of grinding along with a good deal of aroma.

Staling begins once degassing ends

The carbon dioxide leaving the bean also displaces oxygen inside it, so while degassing continues the coffee is partly protected from oxidation.

As gas pressure falls, air moves in, and the slow loss of aromatics and development of stale character begins in earnest.

The practical result is a window rather than a peak, opening several days after roasting and closing gradually over the following weeks depending on storage.

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Hana Morioka
Tea Editor, Brewed Originals

Hana trained in Uji and writes about tea with an emphasis on what is actually in the cup rather than the ceremony around it.

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