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Tea

American Grown Tea And Why There Is So Little

Tea plants survive in parts of the Southeast and Pacific Northwest, but hand plucking at American wages makes commercial production almost impossible except at boutique scale.

Elegant tea being poured from teapot into glass cup, with reflection.
Elegant tea being poured from teapot into glass cup, with reflection. · Photo via Pexels

The United States imports nearly all of its tea, yet the plant grows here. The reasons production stays tiny are economic rather than botanical.

The plant tolerates more than expected

Tea is an evergreen shrub that handles acidic soil, high rainfall and mild winters. Parts of the Southeast, the Gulf coast and the Pacific Northwest fit that description.

Cold is the main limit. Hard freezes damage the young growth that is plucked, and repeated freezes kill plants outright.

Small plantings exist in several states, and a handful have operated for decades. They demonstrate that the agronomy works.

Plucking is the cost that decides everything

Quality tea is made from the bud and top two leaves, picked by hand and repeatedly through the season. It is skilled, slow, labor-intensive work.

At American agricultural wages the labor cost per pound of finished tea is far above what producing countries face. The gap is not marginal.

Machine harvesting cuts everything at a set height, mixing young shoots with older leaf and stem. It lowers cost and lowers quality at the same time.

Processing requires equipment and knowledge

Fresh leaf must be withered, rolled, oxidized to a chosen degree and dried, generally within hours of picking. Delay ruins it.

That means an on-site processing facility, which is a substantial fixed cost for a small planting. The equipment cannot be shared across distant farms.

The skill involved is also hard to acquire domestically, since there is no established local tradition to learn from. Most American producers have trained abroad or improvised.

The route to viability is small and specific

Domestic growers generally sell directly at prices well above imported tea, positioning the product as a rarity rather than a commodity.

Agritourism supports several operations, with tours and tasting rooms carrying part of the revenue. The tea alone rarely covers the operation.

That model caps the scale. It works at a few acres and does not extend to hundreds.

What the domestic lots actually taste like

Because the plants are young and the processing is often experimental, results vary widely between producers and between seasons.

Well-made examples tend toward soft, mild character rather than the intensity of established regions. That partly reflects climate and partly plant maturity.

Tea bushes take years to reach full production, and the oldest American plantings are still young by the standards of established gardens. The picture is not settled.

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Hana Morioka
Tea Editor, Brewed Originals

Hana trained in Uji and writes about tea with an emphasis on what is actually in the cup rather than the ceremony around it.

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